Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides put standard asphalt driveways at about $5 to $12 or more per square foot (HomeGuide) and asphalt parking lots at about $2 to $4.50 per square foot (HomeAdvisor). Removal of old pavement, extra base work and driveway approach work add to the total. We give you a written price after the site visit.

Paving is the job of putting down a hard surface; asphalt is one of the materials used to do it. Concrete, pavers and chip seal are other paving materials. Asphalt is the most common choice for driveways and lots here because it costs less up front than concrete and is easy to repair and reseal.

Cost guides put asphalt driveway life at roughly 15 to 30 years. In Victorville, sun and heat push that toward the shorter end unless the driveway is sealed every few years and cracks are filled before winter.

Yes. Hot weather actually helps asphalt compact, but fresh pavement stays soft longer. We plan when you can drive on it and keep heavy loads off it until it has cooled and firmed up.

With 79 freezing nights a year, cold mornings are common. Asphalt needs warm enough ground to compact properly, so winter paving depends on the forecast. Crack sealing and repairs are often done in fall to get ahead of the cold.

Work on your own property usually does not, but changing the driveway approach, curb or sidewalk does. In Victorville that means a city encroachment permit through the Citizen Access portal; elsewhere it depends on whether you are in Apple Valley, Hesperia, Adelanto or unincorporated county land.

HomeGuide recommends waiting 3 to 6 months after paving so the asphalt can cure before the first seal coat.

That is 400 square feet. HomeGuide's table puts it at about $2,000 to $4,800 for standard asphalt before any tear-out or base repair.

For cars on a well-built base, 2 to 3 inches compacted is common. For trucks, trailers or RVs, 3 to 4 inches over a deeper base is the better choice.

Often one to three days: removal and base work first, then paving in a single day.

It can if the slabs are stable, but concrete joints tend to show through over time. Removing the concrete is usually the more lasting choice.

Usually settlement of loose fill next to the foundation or water from a downspout soaking the base. We dig it out, compact new base and fix the drainage.

HomeAdvisor's national range is about $2 to $4.50 per square foot, or about $400 to $1,130 per space. A lot needing base repair, truck sections or extensive grading costs more.

Yes. We phase the lot and can work nights or weekends where needed.

If it is cracked and worn but not rutted, sinking or full of potholes, an overlay is often possible after repairs. We mark the areas that need rebuilding first.

Yes. Truck yards and loading areas get a deeper base and thicker asphalt sized to the loads they carry.

Yes. We provide line-item proposals, phasing plans and schedules that managers can share with tenants.

Plan on every two to four years, toward the short end of HomeGuide's 2 to 10 year range, because of the sun and heat. Reseal when the surface turns gray and the old coat wears off in the tire paths.

Yes, in the morning. Afternoon pavement temperatures run far above the air temperature, and sealer goes on best when surface and air are in the 50 to 95 degree range.

Light grit can settle into the surface. We avoid sealing when strong wind is forecast, and reschedule if needed.

Usually 24 to 48 hours. HomeGuide gives 12 to 72 hours depending on conditions.

Fresh sealer can be smooth. Many sealers include sand for traction, and the surface roughens slightly as it wears in.

We clean and prime oil spots first. Sealer over untreated oil will peel.

Cold patch over a weak base does not last. A saw-cut repair removes the failed material and rebuilds the base underneath.

HomeGuide's national range is about $100 to $400 per pothole, and many companies have a minimum charge of $100 to $250. Grouping repairs saves money.

Yes. We cut back to solid asphalt, rebuild the base and pave the edge, then grade the shoulder to support it.

If damage covers a small share of the surface, patch. If it covers most of it, an overlay or rebuild usually costs less over time.

Yes, once they have cooled and settled. Sealing over patches and the surrounding pavement helps everything blend in and keeps water out.

Yes. We cut out the settled section, rebuild the base around the drain and repave to the right grade.

Fall, before the freezing nights. Cooler weather opens cracks wider, which lets more sealant in.

Single cracks, joint cracks and edge cracks seal well. Alligator cracking means the base has failed and needs patching instead.

Several years in most cases. Some cracks will reopen alongside the sealant over time and need touching up.

Hot sealant cools and firms within a short time, usually allowing traffic the same day.

They are related. Sealing uses a flexible, hot-applied rubberized material for cracks that move with temperature; filling is for wide cracks that do not move much.

Yes. Sealcoat alone does not fill cracks; seal them first so the coat goes on a tight surface.

It depends on total spaces: 1 for up to 25, 2 for 26 to 50, 3 for 51 to 75, and so on, with at least one van-accessible space.

HomeGuide says 2 to 5 years. Sun and sand in the High Desert put most lots at the shorter end.

Yes, after cleaning the surface. Lines show best over a fresh seal coat, though.

Yes, where the fire authority requires them or they already exist.

Sometimes. Stall width, angle and aisle widths all affect how many spaces fit. We lay out options for you to review before painting.

Lines that conflict with a new layout are covered or blacked out so drivers are not confused.

Yes. Truck and trailer stalls are longer and wider than car stalls, and we lay them out to fit the vehicles and turning paths you actually have.